Hey Guy: Feature these on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives
Food Network's "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" is one of the most popular and enduring shows on its cable television schedule.
Each week, colorful host Guy Fieri visits three restaurants to showcase unique cuisine. In some cases, the restaurant — or food truck — serves ethnic food; in others, terrific interpretations of classic dishes.
Most restaurants featured on the show are independent and all feature a menu that is, for the most part, made from scratch. Some are diners, many are dives and, occasionally, a surviving drive-in, complete with trays that attach to the car window.
At each stop, Fieri spends time in the kitchen, watching the chef prepare one of the specialties of the house.
In its 25 seasons on the Food Network, Fieri and his red '67 Camaro convertible have managed to visit over 450 restaurants in North America. He's also taken the show to Europe and, most recently, traveled to Cuba to showcase some of its most interesting restaurants.
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But never the 302 area code. In fact, Delaware, is one of the few states not ever featured on the show.
The omission could not be because the First State lacks worthy candidates — certainly a number of them would meet the show's criteria. Perhaps it is because the producers are unaware of the culinary nirvana that lurks within Delaware's boundaries, and just over the border in Maryland. So, it might be appropriate to suggest some stops along the way, should Fieri decide to visit.
The possibilities are plentiful, among them: A Cajun restaurant in a strip mall, a roadside spot serving killer breakfast sausage in its Elvis room and, appropriately, a plethora of wonderful seafood houses in Kent and Sussex counties.
The eateries might not exactly fit the label of a diner, drive-in or dive, but are still some of the best lower Delaware has to offer.
Po'Boys Creole and Fresh Catch; Milton
Owner and chef Michael Clampitt graduated from culinary school and soon embarked on a successful career — working for others. But he was itching for independence and, when an established Cajun restaurant in Milton became available, he seized the opportunity.
"I decided, I could make this happen," he said.
Indeed, he has.
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Since opening for business in January 2014, the restaurant has grown in popularity because of Clampitt's ability to produce authentic New Orleans style cuisine, including andouille sausage gumbo, jambalaya and a tasty crawfish étouffée along with other southern specialties.
And, if you have room, you can top off your meal with a beignet for desert.
Everything on the menu is made from scratch and, after a visit to New Orleans, Clampitt decided they had captured the essence of Cajun cuisine.
"I wanted to make sure we were doing it right and we were," he said.
Customers certainly agree, given the mealtime crowds.
"Best I've had since I visited New Orleans," said Po' Boys regular Paul Schroeder.
Clampitt's restaurant, located in a non-descript building that also houses a dollar store and Mexican market, seats less than 30 and is often full at meal time.
Though he's often urged to expand, Clampitt has resisted because the manageable size of the restaurant allows him to spend time with his family.
"I have been tempted (to expand) but haven't done it," he said. "Plus, I am really enjoying what I have here."
His alternative: Po'Boys now has a food truck to take its cuisine on the road.
"Plus, it helps get our name out there," he said.
Helen's Famous Sausage House; Smyrna
In 1983, Helen Achenbach decided to open a small restaurant, choosing a location on busy Route 13 north of Smyrna. The prime menu feature was pork sausage, made according a generations-old family recipe.
Today, the tiny restaurant typically has lines of customers waiting to get in: it only has about 20 seats, most of them in a room filled with Elvis memorabilia.
Sausage sandwiches have two sizeable links on a roll, with peppers, onions and cheese optional. So, how good is Helen's? In a 50 state survey, Food Network Magazine said it had the best breakfast in Delaware.
The restaurant opens at 4 a.m. and closes when the sausage runs out.
"Truckers love this roadside eatery for its hours," said the Food Network piece.
The restaurant is cash only. Sign in the window: "This is not Burger King."
"We come here at least once a month and have been coming for years," said Tom Lauppe of Middletown, who was enjoying sausage and coffee in the Elvis room recently with two other retired military buddies.
"Yup, we need our sausage fix," said Tom Kelly of Saint Georges.
Taco Reho (food truck); Rehoboth Beach
Billy Lucas worked at upscale restaurants from St. Croix to Las Vegas and even catered for rock stars before the lure of the beach brought him to Delaware, where he had vacationed and worked summers at Nage.
His return to Delaware vision was culinary on wheels. Outfitting a well-worn Stroehmann Bakeries bread truck with a complete kitchen, Taco Reho was born two years ago. Now, the truck is usually parked on Coastal Highway, next to Big Chill Surf Cantina and it offers an array of fresh tacos, burritos and quesadillas.
Tony Kornheiser, the American sportswriter, radio and TV talk show, has even given Lucas' truck his stamp of approval.
"I think I just fell in love," Kornheiser said, of the fish tacos
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"Ninety-five percent of what's on this truck is made from scratch," Lucas said.
And at least one prominent local chef thinks that Lucas has created a gem.
"I think this is a unique culinary destination," said Sean Corea, executive chef of Fork & Flask at Nage.
Sambo's Tavern; Leipsic
It's only open seasonally but the restaurant, perched on the banks of the Leipsic River, has been serving steamed crabs and awesome crab cakes for over 50 years. One blogger said it was one of a dozen restaurants in Delaware "you have to visit before you die."
NASCAR drivers agree because it is not uncommon to see racers and their families in Sambo's when races are held at nearby Dover International Speedway.
Matt's Fish Camp; Bethany Beach
Before Matt's Fish Camp was Matt's Fish Camp, it was a popular locals hangout, a small beach shack that served breakfast and lunch.
Local fisherman would sit at the counter, drink coffee, read the newspaper and buy bags of ice before heading a mile or so north toward the Indian River Inlet for a day out on the water.
When Matt Haley, later founder and president of SoDel Concepts, bought the building in 2010, he decided he wanted to pay homage to its colorful history.
"It still very much looks like an old, Sussex County beach shack," said Mike Dickerson, vice president of SoDel Concepts, an award-winning hospitality group, which also owns eight other restaurants, a catering company and food truck.
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Inside, the restaurant is homey and comfortable yet retro, with wooden chairs, a stripped down bar and a casual vibe. The restaurant's decor and menu have a strong New England influence, with a southern, Sussex County twist.
"It's coastal comfort food," he said.
The homemade menu features items like New England clam chowder, made-to-order thick cut onion rings, oyster po boys, lobster rolls, colossal crab cakes, buttermilk fried chicken and pan seared day boat scallops.
The restaurant offers a daily happy hour from 3-6 p.m., in addition to fresh specials, and traditional, local favorites, like chicken and dumplings and pretzel salad — made with strawberries, cream cheese, melted butter and crushed pretzels.
The restaurant is open, and busy, year-round, especially during the summer season. Reservations for the 66-seat restaurant are highly recommended.
Grove Market Restaurant & Smokehouse; Bishopville
Hidden among the trees on St. Martins Neck Road, is a funky little eatery called Grove Market.
Located in Bishopville, Maryland, just over the Delaware line, the restaurant serves a mix of folks from both states.
The place has been around for nearly three decades, thriving off of exceptional customer service, a fresh, rotating menu and word of mouth — the owners have never advertised. However, it appears as if that hasn't posed a problem for the 12-seat restaurant.
Grove Market has earned a solid reputation as a hidden gem among locals, so popular, in fact, that it's not uncommon for it to be booked up to two weeks out, so a reservation in advance is highly recommended.
The Baltimore Sun called Grove Market one of the area's top restaurants, due to its, "genuine and old-fashioned seafood meals."
Some of the local favorites include the fresh scallops, flounder and tuna pate, all served on an array of colorful, mismatched dishes. Most of the menu is New Orleans inspired, with a heavy Delmarva influence.
The restaurant will close for the season in a few weeks, reopening in May for dinner at 5 p.m., daily.
Taqueria La Sierra; Selbyville
Taqueria La Sierra is not much to look at from the outside.
Actually, it looks exactly like what it is: a Hispanic general store, for lack of a better description. The tienda up front sells everything from clothes, shoes, gum, DVD’s, music, candles and more. There is also a grocery store, with its own butcher shop, that offers nearly every ingredient a Food Network recipe might call for, in addition to gourmet cheeses, candy, chips, hard-to-find spices and ice cream.
Oh, and there's also a barber shop.
Needless to say, the aisles alone offer a fun, ethnic experience. But the true joy is in the back of the building. That's where the restaurant Taqueria La Sierra, one of Delaware's, "best kept secrets," is hidden.
The dining room area is uncomplicated, featuring a few booths, an order counter, and a mounted flatscreen TV that plays Latin music videos and soap operas.
"A lot of people come here when they’re working around. They really like it," said owner Diana Barrientos. "We try to keep everything like they would make back home."
As promised, the menu is as authentic as they come, made from old family recipes and fresh ingredients.
On it are options like flaky tamales, fajitas, enchiladas and nine different varieties of tacos, some commonly found here in the U.S., such as pollo (chicken), carnitas (deep fried pork) and barbacoa (shredded beef).
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Others aren’t so familiar, such as chivo (goat), pastor (marinated pork with pineapple), cabeza (beef head) and tripa (beef tripe).
The Taqueria is owned, run by and frequented by the local Latin community, but some of the staff speaks a little English. Don’t let that deter you. The Taqueria La Sierra is a can’t miss.
Southern Grill; Ellendale
Owner Ron White grew up in Jacksonville, Florida, graciously eating whatever was put on the table.
His family was not rich, but wealthy in the sense that they had their own vegetable and herb garden, and the tools to hunt for food.
"We ate anything that walked, swam or crawled," he said.
When White opened his own restaurant in Ellendale in 2011, he made sure his menu featured the home-cooked, family recipes he grew up on.
The menu is made nearly entirely from scratch, featuring homemade barbecue, fried chicken, collard greens, mac and cheese, yams, fried cabbage, yeast rolls, corn pudding, crab cakes, broccoli, scalloped apples, cakes, pies and more.
"It's Southern-style cooking, with a Delmarva twist," he said.
Every Wednesday night from roughly December through the middle of March the Southern Grill also offers a Delmarva delicacy: muskrat.
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The swamp rats are broiled and flash-fried whole, and served either plain or smothered in gravy or barbecue sauce with two sides. Southern Grill is one of the only restaurants around that offers the local heritage dish, and sells more than 40 muskrat dinners a night, he said.
302-537-1881, ext. 207
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Where to find the restaurants
•Po'Boys Creole and Fresh Catch; 900 Palmer St., Milton. Serving lunch and dinner, Wednesday through Sunday
•Helen's Famous Sausage House; 4866 N. Dupont Hwy., Smyrna. Closed Sunday
•Taco Reho; when stationary: 19406 Coastal Highway, Rehoboth Beach
•Sambo's Tavern; 283 Front St., Leipsic. Open for lunch and dinner daily, March-October
•Matt's Fish Camp; 28635 Coastal Hwy, Bethany Beach
•Grove Market; 12402 St. Martins Neck Rd, Bishopville
•Taqueria La Sierra; 58 Church St, Selbyville. Open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
•Southern Grill; 711 Main St, Ellendale. Open 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily