LIFE

Wilmington’s Black Lab Breads has closed

Patricia Talorico The News Journal

Wilmington’s Black Lab Breads, a part of the community for 10 years, closed up shop on Sunday, Oct. 18.

The bakery, known for its crusty Italian loaves, flavored baguettes, rye pullman and terrific tomato pie, is owned by Barry and Sandy Ciarrocchi. They decided not to renew the lease at the 812 N. Union St. location.

Plans call for eventually relocating the bakery, but the Ciarrocchis have not yet found a suitable space.

Head baker Barry Ciarrocchi said he has looked at sites in the Wilmington area, but hasn't been shown any building that will fit the growing bakery's needs. He said it is likely he will move the business to the Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, area where he and his family live.

"Kennett is putting forth the most promising properties," he said.

Ciarrocchi said growing crime in Wilmington is not a factor in the decision in the move, though he didn't dismiss it. "The crime situation is bad, but, cross our fingers, we haven't gotten a taste of that. We close at 4 [p.m.] every day, so it hasn't been a problem."

He said the building, which had housed the DiFonzo bakery for more than 50 years, is aging and it's hard to control the temperature.

When the building remains cool, Ciarrocchi said it affects his recipes for bread baking. Black Lab Breads' business has been rapidly growing, especially the past four years, he said, and he and his wife want to expand, make sandwiches, spreads and offer more products.

“We are leaving because we have simply outgrown this location and our hands are tied. We cannot expand and grow at this location and attempts to purchase the building did not work out,” read a post on the Blacklab Breads Facebook page..

The shop has closed just as the busy holiday season is gearing up. Ciarrocchi said while "it's killing me" to close before the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, he wanted to close in the fall because he didn't want to move the heavy bakery equipment and oven during winter months. "I will not move that oven again," he said of the bakery's imported French hearth stone oven.

The bakery’s customers have expressed their sorrow through a string of comments on Facebook.

“You will be missed. Open again real soon. Wish you the best!” wrote Lynn McNeal-Rodriguez.

“Tomato pie is the best! Hope you find the new location soon!” added Andrea Emmert Mazzuca.

It’s the second Union Street bakery to announce its closing in recent weeks. Papa’s Pastry Shop at 600 N. Union St. announced in late September it was shuttering. The phone number is no longer operating.

The business had been in operation since 2001. It was founded by Sheila Papa who sold the business in 2006 to Nanik and Thomas Oei.

“It is with heavy heart and thought, we decided to close the shop,” reads a Sept. 24 post on the Papa’s Pastry Shop Facebook page. “We have no further plan about continuing the field in pastries, cakes or cookies at this time.” Owners added that they were selling baking equipment.

In 2005, the Ciarrocchis took over the former DiFonzo Bakery site at the corner of Union and Howland streets in Wilmington’s Little Italy neighborhood.

A year earlier, Anthony DiFonzo Sr. had decided to retire and sold the last loaf of Italian bread at his family’s 59-year-old bakery, a beloved city landmark.

But DiFonzo Bakery made an unexpected comeback in November 2014 when third-generation baker Anthony DiFonzo Jr. resurrected the operations. He built a new bakery at 724 Old DuPont Road near Elsmere, a few miles from the former Wilmington location.

Ciarrocchi, said there is no animosity with the DiFonzos and their new Elsmere bakery hasn't hurt business at Black Lab Breads. "Absolutely not. I love Mr. DiFonzo. He gave me a good shot 10 years ago. They've been very kind."

Ciarrocchi said he doesn't know what the DiFonzo family plans to do with the building, but he doubts it will be another bakery.

"This is really hard work. It takes a lot of man hours and work. Customers here expect something good. You can't just buy dough and sell it. Or you can't buy bread and resell it. You need to be able to smell it. I still love what I do. You have to do this not just to make money, but because you love it and you're a little crazy. And I'm a little crazy. And, if you're lucky, the money will come."

This story has been updated from earlier versions.

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 orptalorico@delawareonline.com and on Twitter@pattytalorico