LIFE

Where's the beef? Becoming vegan on Delmarva

Hannah Carroll
hcarroll2@dmg.gannett.com
Gretchen Hanson puts peppers into tomatos and garlic for hearts of palm tacos at Hobos in Rehoboth Beach on Friday, January 15.
  • Veganism has been around since 1944, but it’s still a relatively new concept to many people.
  • A vegan does not eat or use any animal products.
  • A recent U.S study involving half-a-million people found that red meat and processed meat eaters died prematurely more frequently than other people.
  • Find vegan-friendly eateries with the Happy Cow mobile app for smartphones or online at veganrestaurantfinder.com.

Lori Beinhauer was in Washington D.C. for a 10,000 Maniacs rock concert when something caught her eye.

Small groups of people were gathered around an array of white tables, handing out brochures and free samples of food she had never tried before.

She quickly found herself more interested in the rally held by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals that she stumbled upon than the concert she came to see.

“Everything just clicked that day,” Beinhauer said. “It was a major turning point for me.”

Unlike Beinhauer, Gretchen Hanson knew early in life she wanted to be two things: a chef and a vegan.

But she didn’t think it was possible to be both.

So Hanson pursued a career of sautéing, marinating and preparing meat, while fighting an internal battle – she didn’t want to eat animals – for nearly 20 years.

Vegan recipes that won't have you missing meat

Finally, she went to bed one night, and when she awoke, Hanson said, “That’s it. I’m vegan.”

“You couldn’t make a stop at vegetarian first?” her then-husband asked.

“Everything became very clear to me in that moment," Hanson said. "It really was a non-negotiable change."

For most people, making the decision to go vegan is much more difficult then declaring it one morning. People on vegan diets do not eat or use animal products.

Living a vegan lifestyle is a full-blown commitment, said Hanson, who continues to work as a chef.

She admits other vegans might not approve of her choice to continue cooking meat.

"I don’t kill things for my own consumption, but sometimes I do think it is hypocritical considering that the restaurant offers meat and seafood options."

But, she said, it’s the right choice for her.

“It requires strict vigilance though,” Hanson said. “You have to constantly be aware of every little thing you are eating."

The vegan lifestyle

Despite its limitations, the vegan lifestyle has been lately surging in popularity, thanks in part to celebrities who are publicly forswearing all animal products from their diets, including Bill Clinton, Ellen DeGeneres, Carrie Underwood, former NFL football player Tony Gonzalez, Natalie Portman and former professional boxer Mike Tyson.

Vegan-centric books have been flying off the shelves, schools around the country have begun instituting meatless Mondays and vegan food trucks are giving barbecue mobile eateries a run for their money, said Patricia Haddock, the president and co-founder of the Rehoboth Beach Vegfest.

People choose veganism for different reasons, including their concerns about the ethics of eating animals, the effect on their health and wanting to "save the environment,” Haddock said.

For some, like Hanson, the switch can happen overnight.

But for Kelli Anders, the journey toward living a plant-based lifestyle was a more gradual, spiritual one, starting with meditation and studying a multitude of religions.

"The more I studied and grew in my spirituality, the more compelled I felt to walk the path of non-violence," she said. "I could no longer take the life of another in order to sustain my own."

Once her decision was made, there was no looking back; Kelli has not eaten meat for 18 years.

Minimizing and eliminating animal products like honey, bee pollen, dairy, leather clothes, shoes and accessories, however, has been much harder.

"Meat is the one thing will always be all-or-nothing for me," she said.

"Learning to live this lifestyle has been, and still is, a journey. The important thing to remember is to not be afraid to experiment in order to find out what will work best for you."

Like Anders, Haddock believes plant-based eating should be an easy, flexible choice.

Some people eat vegan once once or twice a week. Others eat vegan for breakfast and lunch every day, like New York Times best-selling author Mark Bittman, she said.

"In fact, the very emphasis on labels is not so important," she said. "There is no longer such a big divide — people everywhere are hearing about the benefits of eating as many plant-based meals as possible. So any step away from meat and animal products is a good one."

She recommends linking up with like-minded individuals for encouragement and support.

The Rehoboth Beach Vegfest is one way to meet other local vegans and vegetarians. The free event is held annually and features dozens of exhibitors, cooking demonstrations, free samples, speakers and live entertainment.

Take advantage of resources available, she says, such as online forums, documentaries and the Internet.

"Vegan is not about perfection — it's about doing the best you can to eat with kindness, and mindfulness. It's a choice we get every time we sit down to eat," Haddock said. "But like every new adventure, it'll be easier with some support."

Lori Beinhauer of Good Earth Market in Rehoboth Beach shows various vegan ingredients on Tuesday, December 12.

You can still have cheese

For many people, the thought of giving up cheese is a real deal-breaker.

But thanks to modern advances and vegan substitutions, vegans can still have their cheese and eat it too, sort of.

"There are so many more options available today than there was five,10, 20 years ago," said Beinhauer, who went vegan after the rock concert. She’s the manager at The Good Earth Market in Rehoboth Beach.

"These options are so good that they often fool people for the real thing," she said.

For the cheese-lovers out there, Beinhauer recommends trying Daiya (pronounced day-ah).

Daiya products are free of the three most common allergens: dairy, soy and gluten, but retain creaminess, flavor and savory goodness, she said.

"I use it to make mac-and-cheese, lasagna, veggie bakes, broccoli au gratin, so many things," she said. "It's much better than the vegan cheeses that were available to me when I first started."

For nearly three decades, she's experimented with countless recipes and vegan substitutions. Her own cookbook, “Vegan Picnic,” is set for release this spring.

Lori Beinhauer of Good Earth Market in Rehoboth Beach mixes chickpea salad to show the ease of eating as a vegan on Tuesday, December 12.

To make chili, sloppy joes and “pigs in a blanket,” Beinhauer uses soy granules — a healthy and economical meat substitute.

She often steams Tofurkey bratwursts in beer or white wine, and then tops them with grilled onions and peppers. She makes vegan chicken salad with chicken-free chicken strips, made by Beyond Meat, with chopped vegetables, seasonings and egg-free mayonnaise.

"Many people are intimidated by the substitutions," she said. "But you literally use them just like you would as if it were the real thing."

Logan Willey is another fan of vegan-approved substitutions.

She recently opened Real Raw Organics in Ocean City, a local, all-natural health food company and kombucha cafe. The menu features acai bowls, fresh salads, sandwiches and gourmet tacos packed with veggies and plenty of meat-less protein, such as marinated tempeh.

Tempeh is made from soybeans, like tofu, but it is a whole soybean product with different nutritional characteristics and textural qualities.

"I've found that marinating the tempeh helps accentuate its natural, earthy flavors," she said. "It's absolutely amazing."

Real Raw Organic's spicy asian tempeh tacos are made with freshly shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, cilantro and topped with chipotle crema.

Willey, a vegetarian, is happy to make the tacos vegan-approved upon request, as well as everything else on the menu. To make a rich, creamy — yet vegan — crema, Willey purees cashews, lemon juice, sea salt, nutritional yeast and seasonings.

"It's actually quite easy to veganize your favorite dishes," she said. "It just takes a little research."

Although she is vegan, Hanson, executive chef and owner of Hobos restaurant in Rehoboth, often cooks with meat. Here she prepares slow-roasted hickory, agave and Jack Daniels infused pork rib.

Living with meat-eaters

Although Anders has spiritual aversions to consuming animals for food, she has learned to live in harmony with those who do not share her views, including her husband.

“I believe in bio-individuality,” she said. “Everyone has their own choice. My husband occasionally goes to Five Guys (burger restaurant) and I do not. But that doesn't make our marriage any less happy."

Anders believes the key to succeeding at veganism is accepting that not everyone will support, or agree, with your decision. This may include your friends, family and even your “significant other.”

"Don't let it deter you," she said. "Everyone needs to follow their own path. If veganism is yours, then go for it. "

Beinhauer suggests making a few compromises.

"Perhaps you can designate one day out of the week to forgo meat," she said. "Or maybe you can introduce a few meatless substitutions into the mix, like loaded bean burgers or vegan beef jerky."

Willey's boyfriend, Chris, also enjoys meat.

During the course of her plant-eating journey, she's encouraged him to try a few dishes he's thoroughly enjoyed, she said.

"People say you shouldn’t try to change someone you love, and you shouldn't, but that doesn’t mean sharing the things that matter to you is off limits," Willey said.

"And if the person you’re with really cares about you, the least that they can do is be open-minded and respect your beliefs. Chris may enjoy a steak, but he has always supported my decision not eat one with him."

Dirty vegan

Hanson has come a long way since going vegan.

At the start of her journey, she was living off hummus, and felt she was starving in her own restaurant kitchen.

"I had to re-learn everything," she said. "I was trained in the art of French cuisine, not vegan-approved dishes."

Although Hanson was making a major life transition, she still wanted her restaurant to serve all the dishes that she had previously loved to eat and still loved to make — even ones that included meat.

"As a chef, all I've ever wanted is to feed people whatever makes them happy."

So she learned to cook by smell, from memory and with love, she said.

Seven years later, she no longer calls herself a newbie vegan, or even a total vegan anymore.

"I call myself a ‘dirty vegan,’ who will sometimes have a bite of a beautiful piece of cheese or savor an egg from our local farmer," she said.

The smell of bacon sizzling in a pan still makes her knees weak, but she is OK going without to live in a way that makes less of an impact on the piggy population.

"I am completely sure that every meatless meal matters, both to the health of the planet and your health," she said.

"At the end of my life, I know a lot of little chickens and pigs will be running around, because of my chicken-less Matzoh Ball soup, tempeh BLT, beef-less Philly cheese steak and Palm Beach Chicken-less Curry Salad."

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