Mailbag: Sandwiches, Szechuan and sourdough

Greetings, fellow food lovers. Sorry for the two-week absence, but we’re back and ready to answer your questions.

First, don’t forget this Sunday is Father’s Day, the third most popular dining-out holiday, according to the National Restaurant Association. (Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day still hold the No. 1 and No. 2 positions.) The organization projects that more than 50 million Americans will be picking up the tab for dad this weekend.

Also, some well-known, and very popular, Delaware establishments are celebrating four decades (and more) in business.

Capriotti’s, which opened its first sandwich shop on Wilmington’s North Union Street in 1976, is celebrating its 40th anniversary this month. Its signature sandwich is, of course, the “Bobbie,” also known as Thanksgiving on a roll. There are now Capriotti’s franchises in 17 other states, as well as the Washington, D.C. Visit www.capriottis.com

Nicola Pizza, founded in Rehoboth Beach in 1971 by Nicholas and Joan Caggiano, celebrated its 45th anniversary on June 11. Is it really summer if you haven’t yet eaten a Nic-o-Boli, the eatery’s beefy, cheesy riff on a classic stromboli? I think not. Where to get one? Visit www.nicolapizza.com.

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Lamenting the loss of Chinese eatery

My wife and I were deeply distressed to learn of the recent closing of the Szechuan Restaurant at 3615 Kirkwood Highway. It opened in 1976 and we were regular patrons, either eating in or taking out, by 1978.

It was wonderful food for the many years that Victor Wu ran it, and when an older man (never knew his name) was in the kitchen. Did you ever see that man? He was a wizard with his wok. Then, he disappeared, and not long after, Victor retired and the business was taken over by some other restaurant.

It still operated under the Szechuan name, but frankly, it was never as good as it had been under the prior management and chef. Yet, we still we went, and we’d be going to this day if they were still operating.

So, my question for you and your readers is, where is the best Chinese food in the area, especially Szechuan style (spicy)? If you have a personal opinion, please let me know. I would also be interested in readers’ opinions (though I will treat those with a healthy skepticism).

But, at the moment, we have no idea about where to turn for our fix.

Many thanks,

Randy Barton

Digging through The News Journal archives, I came upon a March 1976 review of the Szechuan in the Apollo Shopping Center near Marshallton. It was written by the late restaurant critic Otto Dekom who gave the then “new Chinese restaurant” high marks for its food and excellent service. Dekom noted that the restaurant’s management was from China, via New York.

He said it was “about the best Chinese restaurant in the area, comparing very favorably with the restaurant row of Philadelphia’s Chinatown.” Dekom, well-known for his cutting remarks, especially like the won ton soup. He said “the won tons are not the usual soggy blobs, but pleasantly chewy with a richly seasoned meat filling.”

Two years later, however, Dekom noted that the restaurant has slipped a bit. Throughout the years, News Journal critics seesawed on the quality of the food, but always noted the dishes packed a spicy wallop. (One thing that never seemed to change? The decor. In 1991, former restaurant critic Al Mascitti noted he would probably give the restaurant a better rating if management “just bought new curtains.”)

The restaurant’s longtime chef was Tse-Yun Young and owner was Victor Wu. Young, who spent 32 years at the Szechuan Restaurant, died in 2007 at age 85.

I ate at Szechuan after Wu had left, and I have to agree, it wasn’t as good as it had once been. In March, Szechuan owners announced on their website they were closing the restaurant.

The location has since been taken over by Godavari, a South Indian food chain that operates other restaurants in New York, Massachusetts, Illinois, North Carolina, and Gaithersburg, Maryland.

The restaurant specializes in Hyderabadi Biryani, 100 varieties of dosas, Indo-Chinese specialities and more Indian flavored dishes. It offers a daily lunch buffet and a la carte dinner. Visit www.godavarius.com or call (302) 999-0286.

Readers frequently ask about the best Chinese in the area, and it tends to be a polarizing question. My first choice would be Confucius Chinese Cuisine at 57 Wilmington Ave. in Rehoboth Beach. Visit www.confuciusrb.com.

While I haven’t been yet, I’ve been hearing good reports about Chef Tan at 108 E. Main St. in Newark, which features authentic Sichuan and Hunan dishes. Want to get the tastebuds tingling? Try the traditional fiery Sichuan ribeye brew pot ($22.95) infused with beer and simmered with enoki mushrooms, bean thread glass noodles and peppercorns. Visit www.cheftan.com

You also could try Takumi Restaurant in the Independence Mall shopping center, 1601 Concord Pike, Brandywine Hundred. The restaurant is perhaps best known for its sushi and other Japanese dishes, but they also offer spicy Sichuan dishes. Visit besttakumi.com

Another suggestion is Bamboo House in Newark’s College Square Shopping Center. Visit www.bamboohouseonline.com/

Readers? More thoughts?

Sourdough bread gets high marks at Wilmington bakery

I just wanted to let everybody know that Market Street Bread + Bagel has a new rustic sourdough bread and it is fabulous. It’s the best bread they have made. It’s a new recipe with a longer fermentation time (the longer the more complex the flavor). I think it’s the equal of Metropolitan Bread in Philly.

If you love good bread it’s worth a trip in town!

Tom Martin

Good to hear it, Tom. In early May, there was a split in the partnership at the 823 N. Market St. Wilmington bakery when La Fia owners Bryan and Andrea Sikora sold their 50 percent share of business.

Phil Petruccelli is a new partner in the bakery that’s run by his son Dominic Petruccelli, the head baker. Market Street Bread + Bagel, across from The Grand and next door to Chelsea Tavern, began its retail operation in early January.

It offers a variety of artisanal baked goods such as baguettes, breads, pretzels and doughnuts. The shop is open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Fridays. For more information, visit the Market Street Bread + Bagel Facebook page or call (302) 482-2553.

Looking for mini sticky buns

Many years ago there was a bakery in the Philadelphia area called Mrs. Higgins. They had excellent mini sticky buns. Somewhat similar ones are now made by Weinrich Bakery in Newtown Square, Pennsylvania.

Do any bakeries in the Wilmington and maybe the West Chester, Pennsylvania, area, that carry these?

Thank you,

Eva Verplanck

Eva, I’m not familiar with these bakeries or their sticky buns. Maybe readers have some suggestions?

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 orptalorico@delawareonline.com and on Twitter@pattytalorico