Column: The end of an era for Ed’s Chicken?

My heart actually hurt this morning when I learned about the devastating Tuesday fire that destroyed Ed’s Chicken & Crabs.

I can’t remember a time when the Dewey Beach institution wasn’t there. The rambling shack-style, seasonal eatery, owned by former commercial fisherman Ed Riggin, has been hugging the corner of Del. 1 and Swedes Street for nearly 40 years.

Even if you've never eaten at Ed’s – which longtime Delawareans like to call “Chicken Ed’s” – you’ve probably seen it while driving through Dewey.

The open-air business, established in 1978, is typically surrounded by a constant perfume of spicy Chesapeake Bay-style seasonings and vinegar. As soon as the business opens, it seems as if there almost always is a group of bathing suit-clad tourists sitting under the umbrellas or soaking in the sun at the picnic benches while picking hot blue crabs, eating corn-on-the-cob or peeling spicy steamed shrimp. The napkins are rolls of paper towels. The tablecloths are brown butcher paper.

It’s all ages, all demographics.

STORY: Owner says Ed's Chicken likely gone for good

Ed’s is known for its crabcake and grilled barbecue chicken sandwiches. I’ve always loved the lemonade. You go to Ed’s because that’s what you do in the summer in Dewey - eat seafood or grilled foods outside and watch the heavy passing beach traffic and be thankful you’re not in it. Is this the best food in Dewey? Probably not. But it is only a block from the beach.

The feisty, fun and colorful Riggin also is part of the appeal of the stand. He loves teasing customers and this is a man who can tell a good fish tale.

“I used to be a neurosurgeon, but I made too much money so I quit to do this,” he said in 1986 interview and gestured around his stand.

What does he do during the winter?

“I ski all winter. I ski in Switzerland.”

It's up to you to decide if he was joking.

Dewey businesses have come and gone – anyone remember Theo’s? Col. Mustard’s Phat Burgers? or The Waterfront? – but Riggin’s establishment is a landmark in this casual and carefree summer sandbox, maybe as much so as the famed Dolle’s saltwater taffy shop on the Rehoboth Beach boardwalk.

Ed’s Chicken has been damaged by fire before. In 2008, a grease fire damaged the roof and the exhaust system, but the business reopened a few hours later.

This time, however, it looks like this is the end of an era. Riggin, 83, told The News Journal he probably won’t rebuild. Sadly, the chapter is closing on Chicken Ed’s. It's a cruel ending to a longtime Delaware business.

And, for once, this is no fish tale.

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 orptalorico@delawareonline.com and on Twitter@pattytalorico