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Independent eateries take over Route 1

Hannah Carroll
hcarroll2@dmg.gannett.com
Shoppers stop in to grandpa (MAC), located along Coastal Highway in Rehoboth Beach.

When Kevin Reading wanted to open a bistro 14 years ago, he heard the same thing over and over again — you are crazy.

It wasn't because he had a poor concept idea or lack of experience, it was because of where he wanted to open.

He had his sights set on Rehoboth Beach — Delaware's food capital for nearly three decades. But he wasn't interested in downtown, where all of the best restaurants were, including his own, Espuma. Reading wanted a corner space located in a strip mall off Route 1.

"People said the food business has always been downtown — not on the highway," he said. "But I had a good feeling about it. Sometimes going against the grain is not a bad thing."

And he was right.

Reading followed his intuition, claiming easy access and free parking were the biggest draws for his decision.

He sold Nage, now known as Fork + Flask at Nage, in 2010 to his friend Josh Grapski, and continued to open restaurants throughout Delmarva. Now Nage, the establishment tucked away in a strip mall, is one of Rehoboth Beach's most revered dining establishments.

READ MORE:Nage emerges from season with new look and name

Dozens of hopeful restaurateurs have followed his footsteps, each helping to creat a highway full of funky, eclectic and independently-owned eateries.

The latest to join is Hari Cameron, who opened grandpa (MAC) between a Mattress Warehouse and Starbucks in a shopping center off Coastal Highway. Cameron, who has three times been named a semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Best Chef: MidAtlantic region, also operates the critically-acclaimed a(MUSE.) restaurant in Rehoboth Beach and the original grandpa (MAC), both located on Baltimore Avenue.

Shannon Baker and Sophia Hall ordering at grandpa (MAC) at the highway location.

LEARN MORE:grandpa(MAC) serving gourmet pasta with twist

Expanding his gourmet, yet casual mac and cheese brand to the highway was, "the right growth step for us," he said.

Cameron helped Reading open Nage, and remembers how different things were.

"Back then, the idea of being on the highway was pretty radical, basically unheard of," he said. "Now space out here is coveted real estate."

Restaurants located on the highway, compared to downtown, have the potential to stay busy year-round thanks to popular features like tax-free shopping, movie theaters and entertainment venues, he said.

Carol Everhart, president and CEO of the Rehoboth Beach-Dewey Beach Chamber of Commerce, said there are now nearly 40 independent businesses along the Route 1 corridor, giving chains a run for their money. The resort community's season is also now longer than ever and as a result, "there is much more opportunity for competition," she said.

Although Everhart believes chain establishments, such as Applebee's and McDonald's, will never be replaced, independent eateries will continue to add to the landscape.

Many business owners have used the corridor to open a second location.

Doug and Lisa Frampton, opened Pig + Fish in downtown Rehoboth Beach in 2006, and The Pickled Pig Pub on the highway in 2009. Their highway eatery became so popular, the couple felt confident enough to build a third restaurant in Lewes, expected to open this fall.

LEARN MORE: Framptons to open new Pig & Publican eatery in Lewes

Warren Rosenfeld, owner of Rosenfeld's Jewish Delicatessen in Ocean City, is expanding north with a location off Route 1, next to the Wawa.

Jeff Hamer, Rehoboth Beach restauranteur, opened Fins Fish House & Raw Bar in downtown Rehoboth Beach 12 years ago. Drawing on its success and the potential of uncharted highway territory, Hamer nearly took over an entire strip mall with a second location, Fins Ale House & Raw Bar, with an in-house brewpub named Big Oyster Brewery and an outdoor deck patio.

Other business owners, like Brenton Wallace, took to the highway right off the bat.

Crust & Craft owner Brenton Wallace opened his gourmet pizzeria on Route 1 last year.

His restaurant, Crust & Craft is located in a strip mall next to Panera Bread. Although there were a number of eateries in the same spot prior to Crust & Craft, Wallace seems to be the one that will make things stick. He recently celebrated his one year anniversary and is entertaining the idea of expanding outside of Rehoboth Beach.

READ MORE: new Rehoboth pizzeria Crust & Craft

"We've been killing it," he said. "A lot of people think I'm indecisive but I am methodical. I chose this space for a reason."

The free parking and easy access were big factors, but its proxmidity next to a well-known chain eatery was the selling point.

"Panera is always busy and its a landmark," he said. "I've gotten hundreds of new customers because they've seen how busy Panera was and decided to try us instead."

Wallace believes his success is from a consistent and top-quality menu, in addition to an urban, laid-back atmosphere that seems more fitting for downtown Philadelphia then in a strip mall in Delaware.

"People are finally getting it," he said. "There's a major shift happening. The highway is becoming the new food mecca to be reckoned with. I think it will be interesting to see how much it continues to change."

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