Summer eats: Frog legs, margaritas and crabs from Sambo's Tavern.

Patricia Talorico
The News Journal

 

Memorial Day weekend is the unofficial start of the summer season. But I couldn't wait that long to pick some steamed crabs. 

On the way back from the beach last week, I dropped into Sambo's Tavern, the much-loved Kent Country crab house at 283 Front St. in Leipsic.

Two things to know before going to this rural, seasonal landmark off Del. 9: Bring cash and leave the children at home.

A half dozen crabs ($22) served recently at Sambo's Tavern were caught in the Delaware Bay.

Why?

Sambo's has a tavern-only license meaning you have to be 21 years or older to enter. And, they're serious when it comes to abiding by the law. No. kids. allowed. Ever. No exceptions.

Also, it's a cash-only business, though there is an ATM in one of the dining rooms which will charge you a fee. So. Bring. Cash. 

My dining pal and I split a basket of hot French fries ($2.75) served with cocktail sauce, creamy and very good potato salad ($2) and a half dozen crabs ($22). The crabs, locally caught from the Delaware Bay, were steaming hot, heavy, meaty and excellent. Your order will come with crab mallets and some knives to help you pick. Rolls of paper towels are on the newspaper-covered tables.

Remember to bring cash and leave the children at home. Sambo's Tavern in Leipsic has a tavern license. You must be at least 21-years-old to enter.

 

One tiny quibble: Next time, I'll probably ask for a little less of that housemade crusty, salty seasoning on the crabs. Or, if you're not the designated driver, just get another beer to sate your thirst. They have Dogfish Head 60-Minute IPA on tap, along with Yuengling Lager, Budweiser and Coors Light. Bottles of other beers including Corona and Michelob Ultra and wines by the glass also are available.

We had a table by the window and watched a waterman delivering crabs from a boat at the Sambo's dock on the Leipsic River. You can't get much fresher than that.

Call (302) 674-9724 or visit the Sambo's Tavern Facebook page.

Blue Hen concentrates on turf, not surf  

General Tso's frog legs might be one of the most exotic items I've seen on a Delaware restaurant menu in a few years.

The fried $10 dish, garnished with crushed peanuts, is offered at the new Blue Hen restaurant at 33 Wilmington Ave. inside Rehoboth Beach's The Avenue Inn. 

The Blue Hen restaurant in Rehoboth Beach is open daily for dinner at 5 p.m. Happy hour begins at 4 p.m.

This second restaurant from Chris Bisaha and Joe Baker, owners of the excellent Henlopen City Oyster House also on Wilmington Avenue, is all about the turf, rather than the surf, despite being one block from the ocean. 

Bisaha and Baker were smart to repeat some things that have made Oyster House so appealing - mainly the look of the dining rooms - but also are offering a completely different menu that focuses more on interesting meats and cheeses rather than seafood.

Last week, I dropped in for a few small plate noshes created by Executive Chef Bill Clifton, but I'm looking forward soon to a further exploration of The Blue Hen menu, which includes fried Amish chicken ($24), duck fat halibut, (market price) and "rabbitchetta" ($30), stuffed rabbit loin with rabbit leg confit.

The frog legs were a little bit of a hard-sell for two diners not quite in the mood to be experimental. Our sweet server did try the good ole' "tastes like chicken" line, but we passed on the frog. 

But the lobster toast ($11) is a dish that should have no problem finding admirers. Indeed, our server said it has become one of the most popular dishes since the restaurant's opening, and, good news, there are no plans to remove it from the menu.

Can't handle frog legs? Get the lobster toast at The Blue Hen, a new restaurant on Wilmington Avenue in Rehoboth Beach.

These two large, crispy triangles of brioche are smeared with lobster meat, cream cheese, scallions, water chestnuts and pepper jelly. Another terrific nibble? Moroccan lamb meatballs ($9) featuring pickled raisins and sumac red onions.

The menu also has tuna crudo ($18), duck wings ($9) with piri-piri sauce, and duck two ways ($10), a liver mousse and rillette.

The drinks menu, like the Oyster House, is very good with a wide variety of wines by the glass, and craft beers. When the summer temperatures rise, I'm guessing the Frosé cocktail, a $10 frozen, slushy combination of rosé, lemon, elderflower, aperol and strawberry is going to be a hit.

The restaurant serves dinner only, starting at 5 p.m., but happy hour is held from 4 to 6 p.m. at the bar and on the outdoor patio where you can glimpse strollers along Wilmington Avenue. Visit www.thebluehenrehoboth.com or call (302) 278-7842.

A great margarita find in Rehoboth 

My first go-to spot for a great margarita at the Delaware beaches is always Agave in Lewes.

But the Second Street Mexican eatery is still undergoing renovations and not yet open for business. Owner Chris McKeown told food writer Jeff Neiburg of our sister operation www.delmarvanow.com that he's ambitiously targeting a June 5 opening - though, it could be later - for the expanded space that will include 40 more seats.

Francisco, the bartender at Cilantro in Rehoboth Beach, makes an excellent margarita.

 

In the meantime, I decided to check out Cilantro Cocina de Mexico, a new-to-me restaurant in Rehoboth. The 122A Rehoboth Ave. eatery actually has been around for about seven years, but I've never stopped there before. 

Owner Gladys Fernandez makes dishes from her mother Matildes's recipes. Gladys's son Francisco sometimes waits on tables and he's a whiz with the cocktails, especially the margaritas made with freshly-squeezed lime juice. You can choose the tequila; we got Herradura silver.

While getting your drink on, and this was one great cocktail, don't ignore the stomach. A good pairing with the margarita is queso fundido en cazuela ($10). The hot, gooey, melted Oaxaca cheese comes in a Mexican cazuela, a small casserole dish, and it's mixed with chorizo, mushrooms and poblano strips. You spoon the cheese onto warm corn or flour tortillas.

A good nosh at Cilantro in Rehoboth Beach is the camarones al cilantro ($12), or shrimp sauteed with olive oil, white wine, fresh garlic and cilantro that's served in a savory-sweet tomato sauce.

I was less impressed with the ceviche ($12) - the shrimp and fish seemed a little too soggy from an overabundance of lemon and lime juice. Instead, get the camarones al cilantro ($12), or shrimp sauteed with olive oil, white wine, fresh garlic and cilantro that's served in a savory-sweet tomato sauce. 

Visit www.cilantrococinademexico.com

Now, onto the mailbag. A reader recently asked where to go for Chinese food now that the Bamboo House in Newark has closed. Here's one suggestion:

Give Yi Palace a try

I would personally suggest going to Yi Palace, a Chinese Schezuan style restaurant (4435 Concord Pike, Wilmington, DE 19803). I live in Pennsylvania, but I think it is one of the better Chinese restaurants in the tri-state area. Usually, when I visit, there's a good amount of native Chinese customers, which tips me off that it hits close to home for their tastes.

My usual orders are spicy dishes (Chicken with hot dry peppers or fish and tofu in hot sauce), which I heard from the owner is their specialty.

My girlfriend can't really handle spicy foods and ends up ordering non-spicy dishes like the tea smoked duck or dumplings (she hasn't had a bad dish yet).I heard they also offer hot pot at certain times but haven't tried it yet since it's getting warm out. I'll have to try some during the winter.

Overall, I'd recommend giving Yi Palace a try! The owner is really nice and the atmosphere is welcoming.

Best,

Tim Lee

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 or ptalorico@delawareonline.com and on Twitter @pattytalorico