FOOD

Under 21? Don't go to these lower Delaware taprooms

RAE TYSON
DELMARVANOW CORRESPONDENT
The Big Chill Surf Cantina located at 19406 Coastal Highway, Rehoboth Beach, DE. Wednesday, June 14, 2017.

Delaware has 862 establishments — mostly restaurants — that have a license to serve alcohol. Universally, these restaurants are open to all ages with the restriction that alcohol can only be served to those over the age of 21.

But there is another, lesser known type of liquor license for places that offer on premise consumption.

Indeed, Delaware has additionally provided another 88 businesses with a much more restrictive liquor permit called a "taproom license." Among other things, the customer must be over 21 to even walk through the door.

"In a taproom, you are restricted as to who can come in," said John H. Cordrey, Delaware Alcohol Beverage Control Commissioner.

Stockley Tavern & Package located at 26072 Dupont Blvd, Georgetown, DE.

Though many of these establishments — like the Big Chill Surf Cantina in Rehoboth Beach or the Bottle & Cork in Dewey Beach — do not serve food, that is not universally true for all holders of taproom licenses.

"Taprooms have historically been where (serving) alcohol is the main purpose of the entity," said Cordrey.

Other well-known taprooms in the region include Gray Hare Tavern in Rehoboth Beach, Scotty's Bayside in West Fenwick Island and Live at Bo's in Millsboro.

"You know you’re in a real tavern when folks younger than 21 are banned," said Delaware Today in a review of one of those restricted establishments.

But some, like the famed Sambo's Tavern in Leipsic or Stockley's Tavern in Millsboro, don't fit the typical taproom mold because they are known for their menus as much as they are for a selection of cold beer.

"We felt it was crucial to have food to encourage greater customer traffic," said Ken Adams, Stockley's owner.

For some visitors, the age restriction comes as a surprise. Several years ago, for example, one of the visiting NASCAR drivers who was competing at nearby Dover Speedway took his family to Sambo's for crabs but got turned away because his children were under 21.

But owner Isaac "Ike" Burrows said most customers coming to feast on Sambo's legendary crabs are aware that children are not allowed.

"We really don't get many complaints," he said.

Stockley Tavern & Package located at 26072 Dupont Blvd, Georgetown, DE.

But there are some who are not wild about the restriction.

Said one former customer in a social media post: "We used to go to Sambo's but now we have a 6-month-old and you can't take children," said Jessie Raines.

"Walked in, but was turned away because we had a two-year-old and infant. It was lunch time and they were maybe at 15% capacity. Very bizarre, I've never come across a restaurant that didn't allow people to sit and eat because of kids, " posted "Goose M." of Oradell, New Jersey.

In some instances, customers would favor taproom access for youngsters, especially in places like Sambo's, where you can look out the window and see fishing boats tied to the dock outside the restaurant.

"It is sad since the kids would love to go," posted Bill W. Melbourne.

"No one under 21 permitted (but) they made a huge mistake staying a tavern. Couldn't even bring my 19-year-old cousin in for crabs at 7 p.m! What a bummer," said Kelly B., a visitor from Homestead, Florida, said in a post on Yelp.

Adams, however, said most of Stockley's Tavern's customers are aware of the age restriction and are reminded again as they approach the entrance.

Both Burrows and Adams said the taproom license is a carryover from their earliest days of operation at both establishments, when their clientele was primarily adult.

Stockley's was first opened in 1948 by Will Rogers and was purchased in the 1950s by New Jersey resident Dan McCarren, who thought the prominent DuPont Highway location would be a good investment.

Stockley's is on Route 113, midway between Georgetown and Millsboro, a short distance from the popular Georgetown Speedway and on a well-used north-south route to the beach.

"Our (taproom) license is a carryover from many years ago," said Adams, the current owner.

Sambo's was founded more than 50 years ago by Samuel (Sambo) Burrows. And he launched the seasonal business with a taproom license.

Initially, Sambo's was a bar that occasionally sold steamed crabs off fishing boats that docked next to the tavern on the Leipsic River, which connects to the Delaware Bay.

"We have never changed it because that was way my father always wanted it," said Isaac Burrows, who now runs the tavern with his wife, Elva.

Plus, the Burrows family feels that changing the license to something less restrictive would potentially bring more customers when Sambo's is already jammed beyond capacity on most summer days.

"We are busy enough as it is," said Burrows.

Part of the problem is that some out of town visitors are unaware of Delaware's taproom restrictions. And finding out about those limitations may mean an unexpected rejection at the door — even for places that seem family friendly.

Big Chill, for example, has live music on summer Sunday afternoons. Even though the music stage is outside the tavern, children are still not allowed in.

Warned the Big Chill website: "Must be 21 years of age to enter."

And Sambo's Facebook page has the restriction posted inside in the "About" section. "Patrons must be 21 or older," it said.

Other taproom license holders are clearly not suitable for young patrons, which makes the restriction more reasonable. Included are bars that primarily feature late night entertainment or those catering to pool and billiard players.

Delaware also has specific requirements for the other, non-taproom businesses licensed to serve alcohol.

"For them, food must be the main purpose of the entity," said Commissioner Cordrey. "That means, a substantial portion of their revenue must come from food."

And state inspectors are on the lookout for imposters.

"You can't pretend to be a restaurant and be a taproom in reality," Cordrey said.

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