Delaware Park's crab cakes are best in state – so far

Patricia Talorico
The News Journal

Some of my favorite culinary experiences have been checking out terrific food in unlikely places.

Delaware Park's crab cake sandwich ($21), served on a brioche bun with lettuce, tomato and tartar or cocktail sauce, comes with one side dish. We got the cole slaw.

I'll admit to being somewhat skeptical when quite a number of News Journal/Delaware Online readers suggested that I go to Delaware Park's Racing Legends restaurant for crab cakes.

Seriously? A racetrack/casino? In Stanton? 

But crab cakes have been made and served at Delaware Park since Maryland businessman and developer William Rickman, who had an interest in thoroughbred race horses, reopened the site in 1984, according to Delaware Park President Bill Fasy. 

"Our crab cakes are by far the number one asked for menu food item at our sit down venues except for the fast food and pizza locations," Fasy said.

Here's what readers had to say:

"I love crab cakes and am very picky about them. I live just over the border in Maryland, but unfortunately there are few places with great crab cakes," wrote Lynn Brentlinger.  

"My all-time favorites are at Legends Restaurant at Delaware Park. All lump crab meat and no filler."

Chinita S. Wynn agreed with Brentlinger.

"I think the best crab cakes are at Legends Restaurant at Delaware Park and Casino. They are packed with lump crabmeat and NO FILLERS, and they are huge!" Wynn wrote. "Absolutely delicious!!  Check them out."

And Richard Piendak had just two words of advice when it comes to the best crab cakes in the state:"Delaware Park."

It's not really a bombshell revelation. During our last Great Delaware Crab Cake Search in 2009, another food writer picked Delaware Park as one of his favorite places.

While I drive by Delaware Park all the time, it's been years since I've been inside, mostly because the allure of gambling is lost on me. 

I visited for a recent Tuesday lunch. It wasn't a live horse racing day – though there were simulcasts of races from other tracks – and the site was relatively quiet. Well, quiet for a casino that still manages to maintain a carnival atmosphere with its 2,500 or so colorful. pinging, music-playing slots.

Racing Legends restaurant at Delaware Park is on the second floor of the casino.

“Crab Cakes Delaware Park” are the signature entree at Racing Legends, a Victorian-style restaurant that looks like it hasn't had much of an update since it opened in 1996.  

The decor is clubby with wood paneling on the walls, somewhat dim lighting, brass fixtures and a brass rail around the bar. Garland decorated one mirror. A piano is parked near the entrance. Rust, black and tan carpeting cover the floors. 

You can also get Delaware Park-style crab cakes in the At The Rail Wine Bar and Grille at the White Clay Creek Country Club. The golf course and clubhouse are operated by, and on the grounds of, Delaware Park.

The Racing Legends restaurant, which most people just call "Legends," is on the second floor slot level next to the escalator. The website says "Proper Dress Required," though most everyone I saw looked casually attired. And while reservations are suggested, I had no problem getting a table at lunchtime.

The crab cake sandwich ($21) at Racing Legends restaurant at Delaware Park lives up to its reputation.

The Legends dining room was mostly empty during my visit. On A Roll, a quick bite deli also on the second floor, seemed to have the longest line. You can't get a crab cake there, but maybe more people want to drop coins in the slots than pony up for a meal in the Legends dining room where prices range from $11 for a Cobb salad to $28 for filet mignon? 

History buffs might be interested in the archival photos of past horse-racing winners that line Legends' walls. Delaware Park has had several notable visitors including Kentucky Derby winner Barbaro who smoked the competition and won his career debut here. In September 1979, legendary sports announcer Howard Cosell also got nabbed for smoking. But he did his puffing under a Delaware Park shedrow, a huge stable area no-no. 

Everyone wants to walk away a victor at a racetrack/casino. And Delaware Park's crab cakes are, to use a betting term, "in the money," in this summer's Great Crab Cake Search. There's a reason why the crab cakes have been popular here for nearly 35 years.

The dining room is open daily for lunch and dinner. Legends is a Victorian-style restaurant.

The sweet, broiled cake more than lived up to its reputation and is the best Delaware crab cake I've eaten – so far. (The hunt continues. Stay tuned for more dispatches from the field.)

Crab cake lovers know the ropes at Legends. Indeed, two diners near me didn't even glance at the menu when ordering.

"We know what we want: the crab cakes," a woman told her server.  

I got a crab cake sandwich ($21) and a side of coleslaw. But I learned a tip, unfortunately, after I ordered. The table of two behind me told the server they wanted the crab cake entree, which comes with two sides and a salad. There's no cost on the menu; it just says market price.

"For the money, it is a better deal," the server said. (Darn!)

The crab cake (which you can also get fried) is all jumbo lump meat with a hint of rich, creamy-tasting binder that has, perhaps, the suggestion of mustard. Make no mistake: The binder is not filler, it just holds the crab meat together.

This is not a huge cake - it was roughly the size of a palm (or at least my palm). Fasy says the crab cakes are 5 ounces. And it's such a classic example of a Chesapeake-style crab cake, I doubt you'll want to stop eating it.

(Others have given kudos to the cakes, and Delaware Park has been an award-winner at the annual Coast Day Crab Cake Cook-off held in Sussex County.) 

The brioche bun is toasted and is very good, but I preferred the cake in all its naked glory. The side of coleslaw was crunchy and creamy with only a trace of sweetness. You can also get house-made potato chips, French fries or fresh fruit salad.

You need to be 21 or older to gamble at Delaware Park, but not to dine at Legends. Don't want to eat there? A colleague told me she sometimes orders take-out crab cakes.

Racing Legends restaurant at Delaware Park, 777 Delaware Park Boulevard in Stanton, is open daily. Lunch starts at noon. Dinner is 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Call (302) 994-2521 ext. 7476 or visit delawarepark.com/dining/legends/

MORE ON CRAB CAKES

The hunt is on for Delaware's best crab cakes

Seasons Pizza has popular crab cakes. Really. Here's how they stack up

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 or ptalorico@delawareonline.com and on Twitter @pattytalorico