Flesh-eating bacteria death gives oyster eaters pause
For many people, raw oysters are a perfectly harmless delicacy — an ultimate foodie treat to be enjoyed regularly or savored on special occasions.
But for some, it comes at a risk.
Raw or undercooked shellfish, oysters in particular, may contain Vibrio bacteria, which occurs in marine waters. Most related disease-causing strains are associated with flu-like symptoms, but can also infect open wounds and cause septicemia, a serious bloodstream infection.
Michael Funk learned this the hard way.
While cleaning crab traps in the Assawoman Bay in Ocean City last month, the deadly bacteria, Vibrio vulnificus, slipped into a small cut on his leg as he waded into the bay's still, warm, and brackish waters — ideal breeding grounds for the bacteria.
Four days later, he was dead.
“It’s like something out of a horror movie,” Marcia Funk, Michael Funk's wife, told the Daily Times.
LEARN MORE:Ocean City flesh-eating bacteria death
An average of 95 cases of Vibrio vulnificus infection are reported each year in the United States, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Approximately 50 percent come from wound infection, and 50 percent of these cases come from eating raw or undercooked seafood, primarily oysters.
So how safe is ordering a half dozen at the next happy hour?
Pretty safe.
But consuming raw seafood, just like undercooked meat and poultry, "comes with a risk," said Stuart White, food program supervisor at Worcester County Health Department.
"The bacteria is naturally occurring, so there is no guarantee," he said.
Most people are not at risk for serious infection. At most, a healthy person who is exposed to Vibrio vulnificus may experience vomiting, diarrhea and stomach pain that is unpleasant but temporary.
So when it comes to ordering, it is important to be confident in the restaurant.
"If a restaurant offers oysters, chances are, they know what they are doing and how to keep their customers safe," he said.
But just because a restaurant has a reputation for serving good oysters, it doesn't necessarily mean they are quality. He urges diners to check out their bivalves before slurping them down.
"It only takes one individual who doesn't know what they're doing to put a dent in the industry," said Ron Lemin, manager at Henlopen City Oyster House in Rehoboth Beach which serves more than 10,000 oysters during the summer season.
The downtown Rehoboth Beach restaurant sources its oysters from all over the country, as well as other countries like France and New Zealand, to ensure a fresh inventory at all times. When it comes to the safety of oysters, he said, "the most important thing to to keep them cold."
LEARN MORE:5 things to know for oyster season in the Chesapeake
Diners should notice the fluid and color of an oyster. A healthy one will look juicy and opaque.
"If it's too clear, it means it didn't get enough food when it was growing," said Jeff Hamer, owner of Fins Ale House & Raw Bar in Rehoboth Beach.
And big or small, the oyster should look full in the shell and not taste too salty.
Luckily, thanks to the potential health and safety issues, shellfish, oysters in particular, are the one of the most traceable forms of food out there. They are now identified with a traceable tag that must remain with the product from the processing plant to the restaurant and retail outlet.
Each box of oysters are tagged with its harvest date, and when it was shipped. Restaurants, like Fins, keep these tags on file for six months or more in case there are any health issues or incidences to facilitate speedy market recalls.
LEARN MORE: Oyster shucking 101: salt in your blood
Besides food safety, traceability can help seafood lovers better understand the regional varieties of shellfish.
Just as terroir denotes the special characteristics that geography classifies particular varieties of coffee, tea, fruit and wine, merroir is the ocean equivalent. Sea temperature, salinity, nutrients and habitat, among other factors, drastically affect the flavor, texture and appearance of shellfish.
As foodies across the country embrace and celebrate oysters, John Ewart, aquaculture and fisheries specialist for the Delaware Aquaculture Resource Center, warns that even with the best handling practices, the potential danger of harmful bacteria can linger.
"Diners should be aware of the risks," he said. And if ever in doubt, "go for the Oysters Rockefeller."
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Eating Oysters
- Don't wait. Eat oysters within a week of harvest in the summer, and within 10 days in the winter.
- No mud. If you see mud in the shell after you shuck an oyster, pitch it.
- Don't spill the liquid. You want the juices or "liquor" of the oyster to stay in the shell until you eat it, so after shucking oysters, place them on plates in a way that the shell doesn't tip and spill any of the liquid out. Place oysters on the half shell on plates lined with ice or coarse salt so they stay put.
- If it smells bad, it is bad. Pitch it.
Buying Oysters
- Buy them from reputable sources. Trust who you're buying them from, and make sure they look clean and are stored properly, like on ice.
- Look at labels. By law, oysters need to be labeled with where they came from and harvest dates.
- Buy heavy oysters — they should be heavy for their size, just like fruit. If they feel light or sound hollow when you rap them, don't buy them.
- Store them properly. Put raw, unshucked oysters in a bowl in the refrigerator. Cover them with a damp dish cloth so they don't dry out. They don't have to sit on ice, but make sure the refrigerator temperature is around 38 or 39°F.