Where milk is made the old way in Rehoboth Beach

Peer through the haze of outlet malls, crab houses, fast food establishments and beach rental shops in the coastal areas of Sussex County and there are reminders that agriculture is still a major part of the Delaware economy.

Indeed, amid produce stands on country roads, farmers markets in cities and towns, and a nearly obsessive commitment to farm to table restaurants throughout, one out-of-place urban outpost is a reminder that working family farms were — and still are — a vital element of life in Delaware.

And that would the Rustic Acres Farm, where owner Earl Warren raises dairy cows and bottles and pasteurizes his own milk and cream under the Rehoboth Dairy label.

"We are the only farm-owned milk processor in Delaware," Warren said.

Amazingly, the Rehoboth Beach farm, in the same family for a century, exists a short distance from Coastal Highway and almost within sight of the retail behemoth known as the Tanger Outlets.

"It has been a farm forever," Warren said.

Warren's late wife, Mary Ann, was part of the Holland family, the original settlers on a piece of farmland that supported the family for generations. Though some of the farm was sold to Delaware for a park and part of it became the Holland Glade residential development, the family held on to sufficient land to support themselves and a herd of dairy cows.

The current farm, though only 15 acres, has enough space for the cows to feast on ample pasture land. Warren also raises crops, along with corn and other vegetables, including lima beans, broccoli, kale, Swiss chard and tomatoes. He also cuts and bales hay.

"I'm too stubborn to give it up"

Most of the vegetable crop is sold through the Rustic Acres Farm Market and at local farmers markets.

Though Mary Ann Warren died last summer after a long battle with cancer, her husband, with some help from his sons, has managed to keep the farm in operation.

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"I'm too stubborn to give it up," Earl Warren said.

They’ve just reopened the store after being closed for a couple of months for remodeling. Business has been slow since reopening because people don’t realize they are selling milk and meat on weekends, Warren said.

Warren said he grew up in Greenwood. Along the way, he worked a number of jobs — mechanic, well driller, heating and air conditioning repairman — and met his future wife while working at the University of Delaware's agriculture research center in Georgetown.

After they married, the couple took over her family's farm, raising cows and selling the milk to Pet Inc., producer of condensed dairy products.

But farming has never been easy and, in 2009, the couple, struggling to survive financially, reluctantly decided to sell their adult cows.

"We weren't making any money," Warren said.

Financial reality aside, both wanted to stay in the dairy business.

"It was something we had dreamed about and we did not want to give it up," he said.

"Besides, I'd already sacrificed 35 years here and decided, what else am I going to do?" the 64-year-old Warren said.

"We only milk what we need"

Despite selling off their adult herd, the Warrens still had heifers, and that's when they came up with the idea of producing their own milk.

While the young cows were maturing, they bought the necessary dairy equipment from an organic milk producer in Greenwood who shut down his operation. Though it cost $70,000, it gave them everything they needed to pasteurize milk.

They also got a bottle washer although, to this day, the quart and half-gallon containers of milk and cream are filled by hand.

Needless to say, customers pay an initial deposit for the glass bottles.

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Despite its small size, the farm must adhere to strict state health standards, and Warren said the milk operation is inspected every 90 days.

Currently, the Warrens are milking 12 cows, mostly Holstein, Jersey or a combination of the two. All are grass fed and antibiotic free.

"We only milk what we need for the store," Warren said.

Indeed, most of the Rehoboth Dairy milk and cream is sold at the farm, although Warren does deliver to the Old World Bakery in Lewes. He also stocks a cooler at Midway Auto Parts.

"Best quality of milk anywhere"

The farm's retail store, a bright red building on Rustic Acres Lane, just off Holland Glade Road, is open Wednesdays to Sundays in the summer and weekends during the winter.

In addition to fresh fruits and vegetables, the store sells its own milk — $3 per half gallon plus a bottle deposit — and cream, which sells for $7.50 per quart.

"Best quality of milk anywhere," said Tony Johnson Crivella on the farm's Facebook page.

They also sell homemade cheese — $5.50 for a pound of sharp cheddar — and Amish butter at $6.25 per pound.

Warren also sells grass-fed beef and pork, butchered, wrapped and frozen.

T-bone steaks sell for $12 per pound, Delmonico, $14.

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The Rustic Acres store also sells ice cream — a big hit in the hot weather — and Warren slow cooks barbecue pork and chicken in an outdoor smoker. An array of sides are available, and there are picnic tables outside for customers who want to eat on the farm.

"On days like this, they come out of the woodwork for our barbecue," he said.

Warren also accommodates families who want to tour the farm and see the cows and calves. All the cows are named, including the two oldest — Earliann and Giraffe.

Warren also raises chickens and has fresh eggs for sale.

"It'd not a showplace, but people seem to like it," Warren said. "I think they also realize there aren't many places like it."

Jim Clark, an architect from Milton who wrote a book on healthy eating, makes a weekly trek to Rustic Acres to pick up three quarts of cream. He mixes it with whey for breakfast.

"I have been coming here ever since it opened," he said. "It is a great store."

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IF YOU GO

Rustic Acres Farm Market, home of Rehoboth Dairy

37217 Rustic Acres Lane (off Holland Glade Road), Rehoboth Beach

Wednesday-Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

(302) 226-2571