DELAWARE

Abbott's Grill's top chef Ryan Cunningham leaves for Bonz restaurant

RAE TYSON
DELMARVANOW CORRESPONDENT

Ryan Cunningham, the acclaimed young chef who put the Abbott's Grill in Laurel on the local culinary map, has left the restaurant for a position in Kent County.

Chef Ryan Cunningham of Abbott’s on Broad Creek with his Apple Scrapple English Muffin.

Cunningham said he left the Laurel eatery to become executive chef at Bonz, a restaurant affiliated with the Harrington Raceway and Casino.

"I got an offer I could not refuse," he said.

Cunningham was another protege of Abbott's owner Kevin Reading.

Reading founded Rehoboth Beach restaurants Espuma and Nage before he opened Abbott's in Milford and, later, Abbott's on Broad Creek in Laurel.

Reading also was responsible for launching the careers of other local chefs, including Hari Cameron, owner of the award-winning a(MUSE) in Rehoboth Beach.

"Part of our training is to create new opportunities for young chefs," Reading said.

When Reading acquired the Laurel location in 2013 — a former Georgia House restaurant — Cunningham was tapped to be executive chef.

Though the location had been jinxed for others, Cunningham and Reading transformed the charming space into a highly successful restaurant.

The upscale restaurant, open every day for lunch and dinner, also hosts special events — including bridal showers, wedding receptions and other gatherings — in its banquet room.

"Ryan has done a great job and he will be missed," Reading said.

In 2016, Cunningham had been promoted to corporate executive chef with the responsibility for overseeing menus and operations at both Abbott's locations.

While at Abbott's, Cunningham even attracted the attention of former Gov. Jack Markell when he was a finalist in a Thomas' English Muffins contest to find the best new breakfast sandwich.

Ryan Cunningham, executive chef and co-owner of Abbott’s on Broad Creek in Laurel, prepares his Apple Scrapple English Muffin.

Markell had offered his blessings for Cunningham's entry — an apple scrapple muffin recipe. It was a finalist in the contest.

Reading, always willing to provide new opportunities for talented young chefs, said the Laurel kitchen is now being run by Ed Davenport, Steve Carson and Matt Gurley. Gurley is the only one of three who has not cooked at Abbott's in Laurel.

Reading also said he plans to spend more time in the Laurel kitchen as staff acclimates to the departure of Cunningham.

"Ryan had a new opportunity so this allows us to give someone else the chance to shine," Reading said.

In addition to his regular kitchen duties, Cunningham helped Reading with Brick Works, a joint venture with the Mispillion River Brewery. The Smyrna brewpub opened in June 2016 and has been successful since its doors opened.

In fact, Reading hopes to team up with the brewery to add some popular Brick Works concepts to his Abbott's Milford location.