Remembering Ocean City 'Rib King' Jack Hubberman
For nearly 40 years, one man nourished millions of Ocean City locals and tourists alike, generously dishing out barbecue, wisecracks and kindness.
Jack Hubberman, revered as the "Ocean City Rib King," died of cancer last month in his Pikesville home.
He was 87 years old.
The multitude of people who knew him, said Hubberman was a family man, a hard worker and a survivor.
He established the iconic barbecue joint on 60th Street, J/R's, "The Place for Ribs," and forever changed the dining scene at the beach.
But Ocean City was just a part of Hubberman's fun-filled, rags-to-riches life.
Barbecue was a second career for him.
"I think that is what makes his story so impressive," said Scott Heiss, Ocean City resident and owner of Nick's House of Ribs. "What Jack was able to do — at his age, and for so many years — is commendable. It says a heck of a lot about the type of man he was."
"My father was a visionary"
Before Ocean City, Jack Hubberman was a Baltimore businessman.
In the early 1950s, he owned Town and Country Dry Cleaners on Garrison Boulevard, and also opened five laundromats.
Despite his success, he suffered from a number of health complications. His quality of life became so poor, that by the age of 46, he underwent open-heart surgery.
After recovering from the procedure, radical and risky for the 1970s, Hubberman had a new lease on life. At 50 years old, healthier than ever, he moved to Ocean City in 1978 to open the Potato Shack on the Boardwalk. He served baked potatoes, french fries and onion rings.
Despite his lack of experience, he gave top competitors, like Thrasher's French Fries, a run for their money.
RELATED: Thrasher's French Fries: A timeless Ocean City tradition
But he didn't do it alone.
He had help from his son Steve, who was 14 at the time, and his wife Jackie, who was the driving, supportive force in Hubberman's life for nearly 60 years.
"My mother believed in my father, and he cherished her for it," Steve Hubberman said. "She was the love of his life."
In 1980, Hubberman partnered with Joe Colton, former owner of House of Pasta on the Boardwalk, to open Ocean City's first, upscale rib house. The two chose the 62nd Street location for its exposure from the Route 90 bridge, and named it "J/R" for their wives, Jackie and Rosalie.
"When you came into Ocean City, J/R's was looking at you right in the face," said Earl Taylor, of Fenwick Island, a longtime friend who used to own an Ocean City McDonald's. "It was hard not to stop by."
In addition to ribs, J/Rs featured barbecued chicken, seafood and steaks. Entrees arrived with warm bread, large wedges of fries or a baked potato, cole slaw or apple sauce. The restaurant's homemade barbecue recipe was a smoky tomato-based sauce, with a hint of sweetness. The coveted recipe was closely guarded and kept in a safe, he said.
A novelty at J/R's was the onion loaf, dipped in batter and deep-fried.
"The onion loaf was one of the best I've ever had — a hot mound of thick-sliced, juicy onions, perfectly fried. … the ideal compliment to a plate of tender, moist, messy ribs," said Taylor.
The end of an era
J/R's became an instant Ocean City sensation.
The 300-some-seat restaurant was full for dinner every night, with lines waiting to get in.
Business was so good, Hubberman and Colton expanded with another location on 131st Street, as well as one in Rehoboth Beach. They also opened a commissary where they sold frozen ribs and barbecue sauce to customers, and honey baked hams during the holidays.
"My father was a visionary — he knew people were craving something like J/R's," said Steve Hubberman. "The food was fantastic and the concept was genius."
Hubberman bought out his partner in 2000, his son said.
Although he closed the Rehoboth Beach location, he continued to make Ocean City the epicenter of messy eating. For the next decade, he could be found every night greeting, seating and taking care of his customers.
"It was never unusual to find him dining with strangers, enjoying their company and getting to know them," he said. "In fact, it was unusual if we didn't find him like that. He was always a people person."
In 2014, Hubberman downsized and closed the north Ocean City location, as well as the commissary. J/R’s flagship location at 62nd Street officially closed on Nov. 1, 2015.
Retiring was not an easy decision for Hubberman.
"For nearly 40 years, his identity was J/R's — it was like a member of the family," he said. "For him, the hardest part was leaving the people he worked with, some of whom he employed for more than three decades. Not to mention, the guests who had become part of our lives."
The north location is now occupied by the Tokyo Seafood Buffet. The flagship location has also been rented to an operator who is about to open an entirely new concept there.
Although Hubberman's legacy has ended, his memory remains.
"My father always said how important it was to be an honorable person," Steve Hubberman said. "My grandfather didn't leave him anything but a good name. And that was enough for him. To Jack, your word was your bond, and your name everything. I'm grateful to have inherited it."
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