Taste: Domaine Hudson is a must-visit restaurant

WILMINGTON - It can be a gamble for guests when a restaurant changes hands and chefs.

While the name might remain on the front door and the menu, it's foolish to think there won't be transformations.

Domaine Hudson Wine Bar & Eatery at 1314 N. Washington St., in downtown Wilmington, is no longer run by founders Tom and Meg Hudson. But fledgling owners Mike and Beth Ross - they bought the business three years ago - vowed to continue the excellent culinary tradition started there in 2005.

They've done one better: They might now be surpassing it.

It's taken some time and it's not all been smooth sailing for the couple who were brand new to the hospitality industry in 2011.

Not long after the Rosses were handed the keys to the Wilmington restaurant, their handpicked executive chef J.D. Morton captured the attention of the James Beard Foundation awards committee and earned a nod as a Rising Chef semifinalist nominee. Heady stuff, indeed.

But Morton departed in 2012 - he's now successfully manning the stove across town at Eclipse Bistro - and Domaine had its share of chef turnover.

No one seemed to quite show the promise of Morton or hit the mark so consistently as Domaine's first chef, Jason Barrowcliff, who is showcasing his accomplished skills as executive chef at Chadds Ford's Brandywine Prime.

That is, until the Rosses made a very smart move in September 2013 and hired executive chef Dwain Kalup.

Judging by recent and truly remarkable dining experiences, the talented Kalup is easily turning out some of the finest and most elegant food in Wilmington, if not the state.

Domaine Hudson is one of Delaware's must-visit restaurants, especially for wine lovers and those who appreciate impeccable service.

Kalup came to Domaine from Chicago's Blackbird restaurant. The critically-acclaimed restaurant is owned by several partners including executive chef Paul Kahan, a 2013 James Beard award winner.

Kalup also has hometown experience. He had formerly been with Harry's Hospitality Group, where he was chef de cuisine at Kid Shelleen's. Before that, he worked at Harry's Savoy Grill and Harry's Seafood Grill.

The 2004 Art Institute of Philadelphia graduate also has worked at Philadelphia's City Tavern with celebrity chef Walter Staib.

The Rosses brought welcomed evolution not just to the Domaine Hudson kitchen, but also to the dining room which seats about 70 people. The previous preppy, clubby interior and burgundy-colored walls have been repainted. Lone diners can grab seats at the bar and there's a private room that seats up to 20.

Furnishings, still sophisticated, now seem less formal and tasteful equine portraits around the room reflect the background of the Chadds Ford couple. The Rosses are well-known veterinarians, and Mike Ross, professor of surgery in the Department of Clinical Studies at the New Bolton Center, has operated on elite racehorses, including a Breeders' Cup winner.

The wine list - it has more than 450 selection - comes on an iPad. It has enviable, yet accessible, bottles and there are about 40 wines available by the glass, ranging from 1.5- to 5-ounce pours. Ask for suggestions from the experienced and knowledgeable staff.

In some ways, Domaine Hudson, near Midtown Brandywine, is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit a fancy one with entrees that can creep up to $39. But you can find some deals. A prix fixe, three-course dinner menu is $44. A chef's tasting menu of six courses is $75. Both change often.

Reservations are suggested, but you can usually grab a seat at the bar and enjoy a glass of wine - or one of their 40 plus beers - and share a few plates. It won't break the bank and I doubt you'll be disappointed.

Bread, baked at the nearby Hotel du Pont, comes with flavored whipped butters that change with the chef's whims. One visit, the butter was blended with fresh tarragon, sprinkled with Hawaiian sea salt and nestled atop a sweet, but not cloying, cherry syrup. Another time, the syrup was a delectable maple-sherry reduction that we couldn't stop mopping up.

One of the best decisions I've made all year was ordering the fantastic porcini and black truffle tortellini ($15). Memories of the earthy, aromatic and tender Italian dumplings blanketed with silky brown mushroom jus and shaved truffles lingered for nearly two weeks. The plate also had tiny nuggets of glazed parsnips and featherlight sourdough crisps that added a bit of crunch.

On a return visit, I was torn between escargot toast ($13) with roasted maitake mushrooms, smoked bacon veal jus, and frisée on sourdough, but once again ordered the tortellini. I needed to see if the dish really was as outrageously delicious as I remembered. It was. This first-course could easily be bumped up to a meal. I want to eat it as often as I can.

Butternut squash ($10) is a soup you'll see so often on fall menus, it's practically a cliché. But Kalup doesn't play it safe. A server pours the hot, velvety-smooth butternut elixir from a pitcher over rounds of coconut-lime panna cotta, which then melts into a creamy broth flavored with toasted coriander and squash seed oil. The lime adds a hint of acidity and the panna cotta elevates the traditional preparation.

Olive oil poached shrimp ($14) is one of those perfectly composed plates that also tastes as good as it looks. The chilled shellfish, resting a top a pool of red curry yogurt, is dotted with refreshing slices of radish, chunks of pineapple and watercress sprigs.

The fall menu has changed and one of the newest additions is Wild Canadian lobster ($20 for a small plate, $39 for entree size) served in the nude. The rosy, sweet meat - you get the claws, knuckles and tail - rests on a lovely schmear of Meyer lemon salsify puree. Berkshire prosciutto is there for contrast and a little saltiness, while golden raisins add sweetness and Marcona almonds add pops of crunch.

Domaine Hudson is as modern and stylish as it comes, but it does observe some continental practices seldom seen outside of classic French restaurants.

For instance, it was charmingly retro and old-school entertaining to watch maitre d' Javier Matamoros, whom longtime Wilmingtonians may remember from the former Positano restaurant, fillet a whole roasted branzino at a nearby table.

We enjoyed perfectly seared Long Island duck breast ($32) with braised artichokes, olive tapenade, marinated orange and toasted cumin, but next time I'm getting fish just to have a front seat view as Matamoros works his magic.

Red meat lovers are in for a treat. New York strip steak ($16 for small plate; $32 for large), topped with ribbons of kohlrabi tossed with cashew-cilantro pesto, almost like a slaw, was grilled to its requested medium rare. The balsamic-soy reduction on the plate is way better than any bottled steak sauce.

Kalup's butter tender braised short rib ($28) was so flavorful, my companion, who usually treats vegetables like unwelcome guests on his plate, even ate the accompanying turnips. That's the highest praise, I think, he could give a chef.

While he showed little interest in a side of grilled asparagus with a snowy shaving of Parmesan cheese - goodie, more for me - I think I could have coaxed him into a few bites of Kalup's terrific roasted Brussels sprouts ($8).

Desserts included vanilla-poached Bosc pears, butter almond crème brûlée, espresso sticky toffee pudding and sweet potato cake.

It's hard to shun such sweet treats, but we opted for a cheese board (3 for $15 or 5 for $24). It comes with dried fruits and candied nuts and the kitchen chose a delectable trio of Pierre Robert, a buttery, triple-crème-style cheese; Beemster, a cheese from The Netherlands; and Queso Leonora, a Spanish goat's milk cheese.

Drinking an after dinner glass of port - again, ask for suggestions - we contemplated our great meal and decided change is something to embrace.

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 or ptalorico@delawareonline.com. Follow her on Twitter @pattytalorico

IF YOU GO

Domaine Hudson Wine Bar & Eatery, 1314 N. Washington St., Wilmington; (302) 655-9463; www.domainehudson.com

Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; and 5 to 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Reservations suggested.

Tasteful finds: Porcini and black truffle tortellini ($15); Olive oil poached shrimp ($14); Wild Canadian lobster ($20/$39); Seared Long Island duck breast ($32); cheese board (3 for $15 or 5 for $24).