Dishes that segue from summer into autumn

Labor Day doesn’t mean the tastes of summer should come grinding to a halt.

But with school back in session (or soon to be), the thought of eating foods like corn-on-the-cob, fresh slices of watermelon and juicy tomato sandwiches just seems so – July. It’s time for a new look at these familiar flavors.

There are dishes to make that can bridge the gap between the seasons while still taking advantage of the late harvest. Segue into autumn by savoring and preserving the lingering tastes of summer.

We have recipes for a savory corn pudding, a terrific side dish, and a corn dip that’s great for the tailgating season. Oven-drying plum tomatoes is a great way to prolong a crop of late bloomers. The tomatoes, covered with oil and stored in the refrigerator in plastic or glass containers, can be used on pasta, on pizza, layered on sandwiches or eaten alongside grilled chicken and fish.

Burger lovers who don’t like soggy buns prefer brioche

Tired of plain-Jane watermelon? A watermelon salad can be freshened up with the addition of tomatillos and queso fresco along with a smattering of jalapeno chilies and mint leaves.

Throughout the summer, I buy ears of fresh corn almost weekly and eat it as soon as possible.

In September, corn is still sweet, milky and plentiful. It’s also perfect for freezing for the cooler months ahead when a memory of summer will be welcomed. Buy corn in bulk, husk it and remove all the silk. But remember, you’ll need to blanch it first before storing it in the freezer.

All fruits and vegetables have enzymes that breakdown during the freezing process. Corn needs to be cooked briefly, about 5 to 6 minutes, before freezing to destroy the enzymes. Don’t skip this step (like I once did). If you don’t cook the corn, the flavor and taste of the vegetable will change in the freezer and it won’t taste as sweet.

After husking the corn, cook it in boiling water and then plunge the ears into a bowl of ice water. Cut the kernels from the cobs and store the corn in well-sealed, plastic freezer bags. While you can freeze whole ears of corn, it’s not often recommended because they can turn mushy when reheated.

Oven-drying tomatoes is another great way to preserve a summer crop. Season sliced plum tomatoes with a mixture of herbs such as rosemary and thyme along with salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Place the tomatoes on a baking sheet and preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Bake the tomatoes until they are soft and juicy, about 4 to 6 hours. They’ll keep in the refrigerator for at least a month.

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 orptalorico@delawareonline.com and on Twitter@pattytalorico.

Creamy Corn Pudding

Adapted from Sara Foster’s “The Foster Market Cookbook” (Random House, 2002). This is a great side dish that can be served hot or at room temperature.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

About 1 1/2 cups corn kernel, cut from the cob (about 2 to 3 ears)

2 scallions, trimmed and minced

1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced

1 teaspoon chopped chipotle

1 tablespoon flour

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup half-and-half

5 large eggs, beaten

1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Rub the butter on the bottom and sides of a 3-quart soufflé dish or deep casserole dish. Combine the corn, scallions, red bell pepper, chipotle, flour, sugar, basil, salt, and pepper in a large bowl and stir to mix.

Whisk the half-and-half and eggs together in a separate bowl; stir in the cheese. Mix the egg mixture with the corn mixture and stir to combine. Pour the mixture into the prepared casserole dish and bake 55 minutes to 1 hour or until puffy and light golden brown. (Note: The pudding will be very moist and soft in the center.)

Remove from the oven and let stand at room temperature 5 minutes before serving. Makes 6 servings.

Hot and Cheesy Corn Dip

From “Damn Delicious” (Oxmoor House, 2016) by Chungah Rhee. A good dip to serve at a football tailgate.

3 cups fresh corn kernels

1 (4.5-ounce) can chopped green chilies, drained

1 1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1 cup plain Greek yogurt

1/4 cup mayonnaise or you can use more Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves, plus more for garnish

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 Roma tomato, diced

2 green onions, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a 9-inch baking dish or coat it with nonstick spray. In a large bowl, stir together the corn, chilies, 1 cup of the mozzarella, the yogurt, mayonnaise, cilantro, garlic powder, onion powder and oregano until well combined; season with salt and pepper. Spread the corn mixture into the prepared baking dish; sprinkle the top with the remaining 1/2 cup mozzarella. Bake until bubbly around the edges, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately, garnished with the tomato, green onions and additional cilantro, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

Oven-dried tomatoes

From Michael Chiarello’s “Casual Cooking.” The tomatoes can be served on pasta, pizza, layered on sandwiches or baked with chicken, fish or pork.

24 plum (Roma) tomatoes

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (and more for storing)

2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence (or you can use a combination of dried rosemary and dried thyme)

1 clove garlic, minced

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Arrange the tomato halves cut-side up and close together on a baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the 6 tablespoons olive oil, the herbs and the garlic. Spoon a little over each tomato half, stirring the mixture as you go. Bake until the tomatoes are soft and shriveled, but still retain some moisture, 4 to 6 hours. (For me, it was closer to 5.) Timing will depend on how large, meaty and juicy the tomatoes are. Let cool completely, then arrange the tomatoes in a plastic or glass container, making no more than two layers. Add olive oil to cover completely, then cover tightly and refrigerate. Makes 48 halves. They’ll keep in the refrigerator for a month.

Watermelon and Tomatillo Salad with Feta Cheese or Queso Fresco

From “Pati’s Mexican Table” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013) by Pati Janich, a chef born and raised in Mexico City.

2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish

1 tablespoon seeded (if desired) and finely chopped jalapeno chili, or to taste

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 1/2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, or to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 cups seeded and cubed ripe watermelon

About 12 ounces tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise (3 cups)

About 4 ounces feta cheese or queso fresco, crumbled or cut into small dice (3/4 cup), or to taste

In a small bowl, combine the mint, jalapeno, lime juice, vinegar and salt. Slowly add the oils in a thin, steady stream, mixing with a whisk or fork until emulsified. Let sit for at least 5 minutes before using, so the mint and jalapeno flavors can marry and infuse the vinaigrette. Place the watermelon and tomatillos in a large salad bowl. Toss with enough vinaigrette to lightly coat. Sprinkle the cheese on top, garnish with mint, and serve. Makes 6 servings.